Day 1 – North Lake to Lower Golden Trout Lake
Overview — A Loop Linking Inyo National Forest and Kings Canyon National Park
This loop begins and ends in Inyo National Forest, but spends roughly half its mileage inside Kings Canyon National Park, following the John Muir Trail before exiting via Lamarck Col.
Last-Minute Permit Change in the Sierra Nevada
An unforeseen change of plans forced us to cancel one backcountry permit at the last minute and secure another—this time starting in the Sierra Nevada Mountains the very next day. My first step was to check Recreation.gov for available permits and then locate them on the map.
The Original Plan: Bishop Pass Into Kings Canyon
My preference was to leave our car at North Lake, take the daily summer shuttle to South Lake, and hike the Bishop Pass Trail into Kings Canyon National Park. From there, I planned to follow a clockwise loop past Evolution Basin—a section of the John Muir Trail my cousin had described as one of its most spectacular stretches—before exiting via Lamarck Col back to North Lake.
Discovering the North–South Lake Loop
Unbeknownst to me at the time, this is a variation of a well-known route called the North–South Lake Loop, famous for its string of alpine lakes on both the approach to and exit from Kings Canyon, as well as for traversing one of the park’s most scenic regions.
Rethinking the Route: Choosing Piute Pass to Lamarck Col
With Bishop Pass permits already taken—and not wanting to risk the late start that comes with walk-in permits—we searched for other entry points that would still allow a three-day loop and include Evolution Basin. Options were limited, but Piute Pass to Lamarck Col ticked most of the boxes, creating a roughly 36-mile loop.
The Piute Pass Approach — A Gateway to Kings Canyon NP
The Piute Pass Trail is more than just a route into the high Sierra—it’s a spectacular gateway to the remote wilderness of Kings Canyon National Park. Starting at North Lake, this approach offers hikers a gradual climb through lush creekside meadows, past shimmering alpine lakes, and over a windswept pass that opens into the vast backcountry. For those seeking a less-crowded alternative to the popular Bishop Pass entry, Piute Pass provides direct access to the park’s northern reaches while delivering classic Sierra Nevada scenery from the very first mile.
Planning a Side Trip Into Evolution Basin
On the map, both passes looked enticing: dotted with lakes, surrounded by steep mountains, and lined with contour patterns hinting at glacial cirques. While the loop didn’t technically include Evolution Basin, it would bring us close enough to make a side trip. My plan was to hike into Evolution Basin en route to Lamarck Col, turning back at either Evolution Lake or, with a good pace, Sapphire Lake. Here’s the full 4‑day loop shown on a single annotated map, including both passes and the optional side trip toward Evolution Basin.
Piute Pass–Lamarck Col Loop Route Map
It wasn’t the perfect solution as we wanted an exact loop, but it was an excellent alternative—especially with permits available on just a day’s notice in the height of summer. With permits secured, we adjusted our accommodation plans and headed to Bishop, California.
Day 1: North Lake to Lower Golden Trout Lake via Piute Pass
North Lake Trailhead Access and Parking
The parking lot at the end of North Lake Road is hard to miss. Enter “North Lake Campground” into your GPS and follow a paved road that eventually turns to gravel—easily manageable for two-wheel drive in summer. About half a mile before the campground, take the final right turn to reach the lot, which holds around 20 cars and has bear lockers for storing scented items (see the start of my YouTube clip below).
From here, it’s a short half-mile walk along the road to the campground. North Lake Campground looked pleasant but was quite buggy during our visit.
Piute Pass Trail
Just beyond the campground, a junction splits toward Piute Pass (our outbound route) and Lamarck Col (our return route four days later). The Piute Pass Trail begins gently, following North Fork Bishop Creek. Water is plentiful along this stretch, so there’s no need to carry more than you need.
Climbing Toward Loch Leven
The trail crosses the narrow creek several times via sturdy log bridges. After about an hour, the trees thin out, revealing canyon walls and the first major obstacle—a steep cliff with a waterfall cascading at a right angle to the trail. The path steepens here, switchbacking up the right side of the canyon along a gravel track dotted with wildflowers. The sound of the waterfall is your constant companion long before it comes into view.
Just beyond the crest of the waterfall, Loch Leven appears on your left—a deep-blue lake framed by a steep scree slope. The trail hugs its right shore, offering a few rest spots. We paused for a drink on sun-warmed rocks, though shaded areas appear further along.
Approaching Piute Lake and the High Country
At roughly 10,800 feet, the gradient eases. The creek breaks into a series of smaller lakes before reaching Piute Lake, the largest so far. The walking here feels surprisingly gentle for a Sierra Nevada pass. Looking back, Mount George Davis dominates the skyline.
Crossing Piute Pass
After five miles and a 2,000‑foot gain, we reached Piute Pass—more like a wide, windswept plateau scattered with rocks and boulders than a steep, narrow mountain pass. Ahead, the land curved left into Piute Canyon, with Lower Golden Trout Lake glinting in the distance.
Detour to Muriel Lake
With daylight to spare, we took a two‑mile out‑and‑back detour to Muriel Lake, a wild and beautiful spot that would have made an excellent campsite. The surrounding terrain was otherwise barren and windswept, so we didn’t linger long before returning to the main trail and heading west toward Lower Golden Trout Lake.
Camping at Lower Golden Trout Lake
We arrived at 5 p.m.—early for us—and briefly considered pushing further. But the steeper terrain ahead suggested fewer good campsites, so we stayed put. The undulating ground around the lake offered multiple private camping spots. With the New Moon overhead, we enjoyed our first breathtaking views of the Milky Way.
Day 1 Video: North Lake to Piute Pass
