Pennine Way: Hebden Bridge–Malham: From Wuthering Heights to limestone beauty, linking the Peak District to the Yorkshire Dales.
Days 4 and 5 of the Pennine Way: Hebden Bridge–Malham, are what I like to call “linking days”—they connect the drama of the Peak District with the splendour of the Yorkshire Dales. While not the most thrilling stretch in terms of scenery or excitement, they serve their purpose. Day 5, in particular, was a contender for my least favourite day on the entire trail. Wainwright seemingly agreed, describing it as “mostly muck and manure.” Luckily, Day 4 is better and day 5 ends at Malham!
After taking the train back to Hebden Bridge we were ready to go. The climb out of Hebden Bridge is indeed attractive, especially if you time it right and find yourself surrounded by blackberry bushes ripe for the picking. It’s a steep start, rising 140 metres in half a mile, but not too brutal. There are two possible routes up the hill—the traditional and the newer one—and I’ve tried both. The newer path is more open and practical, though they rejoin soon enough, so purists needn’t fret.
From Heptonstall Moor to Top Withens: Windswept and Literary
The trail meanders through farmland, rising to the top of one hill before descending into a valley and climbing again. It’s pleasant enough for a few miles until you reach Heptonstall Moor—a harsh, windswept expanse that feels like nature’s way of testing your resolve.
You’ll pass a series of reservoirs before ascending once more to Top Withens, the ruined farmhouse said to have inspired the Earnshaw home in Wuthering Heights. Personally, I didn’t find it all that thrilling, but my literature-loving companion was positively giddy with photo opportunities.
From there, it’s more moorland, more roads, and eventually, sweet relief. We found accommodation in nearby Cowling and treated ourselves to a taxi ride to a neighbouring village for a well-earned curry. If you’re on a budget, there’s a campsite available—but after a blustery day, a warm bed and hot food are hard to beat.
Day 5: Ickornshaw to Malham – Fields, Mud and the River Aire
Gargrave Pit Stop: Cafés and Cow Pats
Hiking this stretch in late October, the weather was autumnal. The route begins with a trudge through farmers’ fields all the way to Gargrave. Here, the trail briefly follows pavement and road through the village, passing a few cafés that are both useful and welcoming.
After Gargrave, it’s back to the fields. Mile after mile of cattle, cow pats, and sheep manure await. Spoiler alert: no matter how nimble you think you are, your boots and trousers will be filthy by day’s end. Best advice? Take the path of least resistance and embrace the muck. You’ll give up fighting it before the end of the day regardless.
River Aire to Malham: A Scenic Finale
Closer to Malham, the trail hugs the River Aire and the scenery finally perks up—fields give way to gentle riverside paths and a welcome hint of drama returns to the landscape. It’s a lovely way to round off the day, especially with the promise of pubs and B&Bs awaiting in the village. We did manage to squeeze in a celebratory pint before catching our taxi, but to put all the hard work in to reach Malham and then leave was like queuing for ages at a food truck, then being told they’ve just run out of chips.
We took a taxi back to Gargrave and caught the train from there. In hindsight, if you’ve only got four days to spare, ending at Gargrave might be the more sensible option—Edale to Gargrave makes for a neat and manageable segment. Our own three-day, two-day split took us a touch further, but with the same transport options and a bit more back-and-forth added to the mix.
Pennine Way Route Maps | Days 4–5: Pennine Way: Hebden Bridge–Malham
Pennine Way Days 4-5: FAQs
What is the distance from Hebden Bridge to Malham on the Pennine Way?
Around 28 miles split across two days:
- Day 4: Hebden Bridge → Ickornshaw/Cowling area (~14 miles)
- Day 5: Ickornshaw → Malham (~14 miles)
How difficult is the Hebden Bridge to Malham section of the Pennine Way?
Moderate overall, with a steep climb out of Hebden Bridge and long stretches of moorland and farmland. Day 4 is more enjoyable, while Day 5 is notoriously muddy and repetitive. The final miles along the River Aire are a welcome reward.
What is Heptonstall Moor like to walk across?
Exposed, windswept, and often blustery. It’s a classic Pennine moor: big skies, rough paths, and a sense of isolation.
Is Top Withens worth visiting?
If you enjoy literary history or Wuthering Heights, absolutely. If not, it’s a windswept ruin with great views but limited excitement. Either way, it’s a Pennine Way landmark.
Where can I stay between Hebden Bridge and Malham?
Consider Cowling, Ickornshaw, or nearby villages. Options include B&Bs, small inns, and a campsite. Some walkers also use taxis to reach accommodation off‑route.
Are there cafes or shops on this section of the Pennine Way?
Yes — Gargrave has cafes, shops, and a small supermarket. Hebden Bridge also has excellent food options before you start. Between these points, services are limited.
What are the best viewpoints on the Hebden Bridge–Malham stretch?
The ascent out of Hebden Bridge with views to Stoodley Pike, the open expanse of Heptonstall Moor, and the riverside approach to Malham are the standout moments.
How do I get back from Malham or Gargrave?
Malham has no train station, but occasional buses run to Gargrave, which connects to the rail network.