North Lake – Piute Pass – Lamarck Col Loop (via JMT)

Day 3 – Evolution Creek (JMT) to Evolution Basin, Darwin Canyon and Lamarck Col

Missed Day 1? Start the loop (with the map) from the beginning here: North Lake to Lower Golden Trout Lake — Day 1

Missed Day 2? Start the loop from the day 2 here: Lower Golden Trout Lake to Piute Canyon and the John Muir Trail

Evolution Creek to Evolution Lake

Today’s hike began with high anticipation. We were still over five miles and 1,500 feet of elevation gain from Evolution Lake—the northernmost gem of Evolution Basin. Our goal was to explore as much of the basin as possible, realistically reaching Evolution Lake and Sapphire Lake before doubling back north. From there, we’d leave the John Muir Trail (JMT) and head northeast toward Darwin Bench and Darwin Canyon.

With a flight scheduled the next day, our camping plans were flexible but strategic. We aimed to get as close to Lamarck Col as possible without compromising our return route to North Lake. It was a delicate balance: maximize scenic exploration while minimizing risk of delay.

Following the JMT Through McClure and Colby Meadows

The JMT began gently, tracing the edges of McClure Meadow and Colby Meadow—vast, flat expanses that defy their 9,800‑foot elevation. A hard frost confirmed another cold night, and our early start helped us reach Evolution Valley before the day’s heat set in.

Frosty morning light over McClure Meadow on the John Muir Trail, with The Hermit’s twin triangular peaks rising above the flat, high‑elevation valley.
Frosty morning light over McClure Meadow on the John Muir Trail, with The Hermit’s twin triangular peaks rising above the flat, high‑elevation valley—an early start before the climb into Evolution Valley and Evolution Basin.

Climbing Toward Evolution Basin

The switchbacks climbing out of the valley were tough but rewarding. The Hermit, a striking mountain with twin triangular peaks, came into view. Trees thinned and shrank, signaling our return to high altitude. The outline of Evolution Basin emerged, and we knew we were close.

Two small lakes appeared first, followed by a rocky outcrop. Behind it, Evolution Lake shimmered in the morning light. The JMT skirts the lake’s northeast edge, weaving through scree and offering elevated views. A large rock formation divides the lake’s north and south ends, obscuring the full view until you’re deeper into the basin.

Morning view of Evolution Lake shimmering beyond the trees as the John Muir Trail climbs past small lakes and rocky outcrops toward Evolution Basin.
Morning light revealed the first glimpse of Evolution Basin, with Evolution Lake shimmering beyond the trees as the John Muir Trail climbed past small lakes and rocky outcrops toward the heart of the high Sierra.

Exploring Evolution Lake and Sapphire Lake

Once past the outcrop, the trail flattens and reveals postcard‑perfect views—Evolution Lake framed by towering granite walls.

Wide view looking south over Evolution Lake, with calm water framed by tall granite walls as the trail flattens beyond an outcrop.
A wide southern view over Evolution Lake reveals postcard‑perfect water framed by towering granite walls as the John Muir Trail flattens beyond the outcrop and opens into the heart of Evolution Basin.

My partner, fatigued from our recent pace, chose to rest and soak in the scenery. She encouraged me to continue solo on our out‑and‑back leg. I dropped my pack and hiked the next few miles with just my water purifier. For two hours, my camera was in constant use.

Crossing the creek at Evolution Lake

At the south end of Evolution Lake, stepping stones led across the creek feeding the lake. The trail climbed gently, unveiling more alpine beauty with each step.

Sapphire Lake felt more remote but equally stunning. I sat quietly, absorbing the solitude and grandeur. My emotions were mixed—grateful for the experience, wistful for the time constraints. I knew I’d return someday. Reluctantly, I turned back and rejoined my partner after midday.

Southern view across Sapphire Lake, its deep blue water set in a remote high‑Sierra basin with rugged granite slopes surrounding it.
A quiet southern view over Sapphire Lake captures the remote beauty of Evolution Basin, a place where solitude and high‑Sierra grandeur linger long after you leave the John Muir Trail.

Lunch at the north end of Evolution Lake

Feeling refreshed, she was ready to hike again. We retraced the trail to the lake’s northern edge, where a flat campground offered the perfect lunch spot. It was one of the most scenic meals I’ve ever had—feet cooling in the lake, wind-blown waves lapping against the rocks.

Leaving the JMT for Darwin Bench

Eventually, we packed up and headed north, retracing our steps to the morning’s switchbacks. Here, we left the JMT, taking an unnamed trail toward Darwin Bench. If you’re following this route, be warned: the junction is unmarked and easy to miss. A GPS is essential.

Northern view of The Hermit rising above the switchbacks, seen from the junction where the unmarked route toward Darwin Bench begins.
A final northern view of The Hermit rises above the switchbacks as we left the John Muir Trail for the unmarked route toward Darwin Bench, a junction easy to miss without a GPS.

Into Darwin Bench: Rugged Terrain and Waterfall Views

The trail quickly changed character—unmaintained, steeper, and more rugged than the JMT. It followed noisy waterfalls and offered renewed views of The Hermit as we climbed.

Steep, rugged terrain with cascading waterfalls and scattered boulders as the route climbs north toward Darwin Bench, with The Hermit visible above.
Climbing north toward Darwin Bench, the unmaintained route follows noisy waterfalls and offers renewed views of The Hermit rising above the rugged terrain of the John Muir Trail.

The terrain flattened, signaling our arrival at Darwin Bench, a boulder‑strewn granite plateau well above the treeline.

Eastward view across Darwin Bench, showing a flat, boulder‑strewn granite plateau high above the treeline on the approach to Lamarck Col.
Looking east across Darwin Bench, the terrain opens into a boulder‑strewn granite plateau high above the treeline, a quiet stretch on the rugged approach toward Lamarck Col and the exit from Kings Canyon National Park.

Camping here would’ve been memorable, but we pressed on. We were still 1.5 miles from the eastern edge of Darwin Canyon, where our topographic map suggested potential flat camping spots.

Navigating Darwin Canyon: Scrambling, GPS, and the Push to Lamarck Col

By midafternoon, clouds gathered over Mount Lamarck. We stayed alert but confident. The trail faded into a scramble across rocks and boulders. Even with GPS, route‑finding was tough. We often climbed only to descend again, doubting the GPS—until the trail reappeared, etched faintly into sparse grass. Without GPS, we’d have been lost. The canyon offered little visibility, and the lakes were our only guides. Progress was slow, and we eventually paused for an early tea break.

Eastward view in Darwin Canyon with a small lake in the foreground and scattered boulders, representing one of the easier navigation sections on the route to Lamarck Col.
Looking east across Darwin Canyon, a foreground lake and scattered boulders mark one of the few stretches of easier navigation on the rugged approach toward Lamarck Col in Kings Canyon National Park.

Committing to the Ascent: The Final Push Toward Lamarck Col

Choosing to Cross Lamarck Col Before Nightfall

We decided to tackle Lamarck Col today—not because of the remaining distance to North Lake (less than seven miles) or elevation gain (1,400 feet), but because of the trail’s condition and uncertainty at the pass. Lamarck Col, one of the highest passes in the Sierra Nevada at 12,900 feet, demanded everything from our legs and lungs. Rest was tempting, but with a flight looming, we pushed on. The terrain immediately turned into a boulder field—requiring full concentration, agility, and perseverance.

Scrambling Toward Lamarck Col: Boulder Fields and Glacier Views

We were stunned to meet a couple carrying a baby across this precarious stretch. Progress was slow, hands and feet needed for every move. At 11,600 feet, we reached the end of Darwin Canyon but saw no trail. GPS guided us up five‑foot rock faces—no longer just hiking, but climbing too. At times, we found a clear trail—only to lose it again almost immediately. Still, we pressed upward, rewarded with sweeping views over Darwin Canyon and the Mendel and Darwin Glaciers.

Westward view over Darwin Canyon from high on the ascent to Lamarck Col, with sweeping sightlines toward the Mendel and Darwin Glaciers.
Looking west over Darwin Canyon, sweeping views toward the Mendel Glacier and Darwin Glacier unfold as the final climb toward Lamarck Col steepens into hands‑and‑feet scrambling.

A wall of rock still loomed ahead, and progress was hard‑earned. It wasn’t until 7:00 p.m. that the top of Lamarck Col came into view.

By then, my partner was suffering from a headache—likely brought on by exertion and thin air. Despite several days at altitude, this was by far the highest point of our trip. Looking west, Darwin Canyon looked magnificent: all its lakes now visible, the sky a mix of brooding clouds and sunset hues.

Looking west across Darwin Canyon as all its lakes come into view beneath brooding clouds and early sunset colours.
Looking west over Darwin Canyon, all its lakes glowing beneath brooding clouds and early sunset hues, the high‑Sierra landscape felt both dramatic and impossibly calm.

Crossing Lamarck Col: Snowfields, Narrow Gaps, and the First Steps Down

The trail led us through a narrow gap in the rock, revealing a stark eastern landscape and a beautiful cirque tarn. Our excitement at finally hiking downhill was short‑lived—a snowfield enveloping the north face of the pass came into view. With no way around, we donned crampons and carefully navigated this final obstacle.

Eastward view just beyond Lamarck Col, showing a narrow rock gap, a cirque tarn, and a steep snowfield covering the pass’s north face.
Just east of Lamarck Col, a narrow gap in the rock reveals a stark landscape and a cirque tarn, only for a steep snowfield on the pass’s north face to appear moments later—the final obstacle after leaving Kings Canyon National Park behind.

Our goal now wasn’t so much to cover mileage, but to lose elevation before darkness. The Lamarck Col Trail winds through a gentle U‑shaped valley, glowing vivid sandstone color in the deep sunset—a stark contrast to the brooding granite and lakes of Darwin Canyon just a mile behind.

Lamarck Col Trail Descent and High‑Altitude Camp

The wind picked up and storm clouds materialized, though safely in the distance over Bishop. By 8:15 p.m.—13 hours into our day—we agreed it was time to set up camp on a flat section of rock. It was our best chance at a good night’s sleep rather than descending further and losing the light.

Northeast view toward Bishop from 11,800 feet, with dramatic late‑day light and distant storm clouds as the descent continues toward the eventual camp spot.
The final dramatic light swept across the high Sierra as we looked northeast toward Bishop, storm clouds gathering in the distance while we descended from 11,800 feet toward what would become our final camp spot.

With the tent pitched and the light fading to almost nothing, we enjoyed a silent but frigid night at 11,800 feet. Our final views of the Milky Way marked the end of our wilderness adventure before tomorrow’s return to civilization.

Watch Day 3: Evolution Lake, Sapphire Lake & Darwin Canyon

Continue to Day 4: Lower Golden Trout Lake → Piute Canyon → the John Muir Trail

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